And while Split itself had been operating as a wholesale-only bakery prior to the pandemic, Corrales pivoted a few months back and began making retail pastries available from her food court-adjacent window counter. Directly across the court, new property Mariscos No Mar concocts vegan ceviches and aguachiles, replacing seafood with jackfruit, mushrooms, young coconut, and vegan shrimp made from the starchy konjac root. Now mall visitors will find a pair of farmers market fixtures operating permanent locations side by side: Veg’n Out serves vegan burgers, brats, and wings while El Veganito offers plant-based Mexican food, including tacos, burritos, and specials ranging from pozole to mole. Sensing an opportunity, the vegan entrepreneur leased all three counters herself, then turned around and sublet them to vegan entrepreneurs in her network. That put her in prime position to notice when three businesses vacated their food court counters last year. The founder of Split Bakery has been a tenant at the mall for three years: her plant-based business sits just outside the food court’s doors. And if Vanessa Corrales has anything to say about it, they won’t be the last. But a funny thing happened at the Grossmont Center food court during the pandemic: three new vegan eateries sprang up. Traditionally, mall food courts have been more closely associated with corn dogs and orange chicken than plant-based cuisine. Split Bakery, Mariscos No Mar, El Veganito, and Veg’n Out.Now available daily, to the right of the donut case. His chicken is seasoned in a blend of three flours, with a spicy option heated by Thai chilis. So he tried reviving the Ali’s Chicken and Waffles idea as a ghost kitchen, and before long, it was outselling the Thai. Working out of the Minnehaha Food Market up the street, he found he was doing most of his business through delivery apps. operation inside when Covid closed the farmers markets. In 2018, he bought a farmers market stand established by a local Thai chef, and wound up entering the restaurant game making Thai food. But he would have to start with a smaller investment. By the time he earned a business degree from San Diego State, he and a friend wanted to launch the Ali’s Chicken brand, in the mode of L.A.’s famed Roscoe’s Chicken & Waffles. The Ethiopia-born entrepreneur recalls the impression waffles made on him as a young immigrant first arriving in a San Diego school. It’s a unique setup, and owner Genemo Ali took a unique path to get here. Ali’s Chicken & Waffles leases the back counter of the donut shop, serving a halal rendition of the famous pairing alongside shrimp and grits and fried chicken sandwiches. To find City Heights’ favorite new chicken and waffles spot, look for the Donut Star. What they all have in common is that they offer something tasty, and in most cases interesting, to San Diego’s food landscape - often with an equally interesting story to back it up. But most are chasing dreams on limited resources. Some of the people behind these businesses chose their location out of convenience, or due to a unique vision. The restaurants featured here don’t necessarily operate in conventional storefronts, on restaurant rows, or within popular dining neighborhoods. Others make do with whatever space they’ve got. Most restaurants count on location, location, location to help make a name for themselves.
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